Speedy. Just as the Medici family ruled Florence, this castle is a reminder that the Scaligeri family ran the city of Verona back in the 14th century. The carne cruda (raw beef), was, as Franklin put it, "like seeing the smile of a beautiful woman after 10 years. Rick: So it's the leftover material after the wine process. The well-preserved amphitheater — the third largest in the Roman world — dates from the first century AD and still retains most of its original stone. Each celebrates fine ingredients of this region, and Giuliano, along with Franklin and Marina, are helping us appreciate what we're eating…and drinking. A stroll here makes for a fun, ancient scavenger hunt. Verona, at the base of the Alps and nestled in a bend of the Adige River, is another leading city in the Veneto. Friends gather around the new grad and the pranks begin. 598K likes. About two hours from bustling Milan and touristy Venice is Verona — a welcome sip of pure, easygoing Italy. Besides eating, for me the highlight of Verona is the evening passeggiata (stroll). As a mark of his universal appeal and importance in the medieval Church, he was sainted within a year of his death. Despite the Church's strict ban on autopsies, more than 300 students would pack this theater to watch professors dissect human cadavers (the bodies of criminals from another town). And for nearly 800 years, his remains and this glorious church have attracted pilgrims to Padua. Rick Steves' Europe. Behind the high altar, pilgrims visit the relics of the saint — considered miraculously preserved: his vocal chords, tongue, and jawbone. Valeria: Brrrrravo! This is the perfect opportunity for a traveler to grab a drink, strike up a conversation, and become part of the scene. Rick Steves Italy, the complete guide, offers more coverage of more destinations in a mostly black-and-white format, and is updated annually. For dessert: a plate of voluptuous slices of cheese. My favorite way to eat in Italy is to trust the chef and just say "bring it on!" It's impressive enough to see a 1,400-year-old church, but it's rare to see one decorated in such brilliant mosaics, which still manage to convey their intended message: "This sense of peace and stability was brought to you by your emperor and God." 2:17. The shorter Rick Steves Best of Italy guidebook focuses on Italy's top destinations and sights, is in full color, and is updated every other year. In The Deposition, Jesus has been taken down off the cross, and his followers weep and wail over his lifeless body. Four hundred years ago, the great scientist Galileo — notorious for disagreeing with the Church's views on science — enjoyed that academic freedom. I loved the Roman ruins and marble sidewalks. Video: Watch Italy's Verona, Padova, and Ravenna, an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. Terms of Service | Privacy. Ciao. While you'll probably see Venice first, don't overlook the gems of the mainland nearby: its distinctive cuisine, its history and sumptuous art, and its people — embracing today with classic Italian flair. The rumors got fueled when he held a discussion on his Facebook page about gay travel in Europe in March 2017. Nicknamed "the brain of the Veneto," it was founded in 1222, one of the first in Europe. Yet the Eastern half of the empire, ruled from dazzling Constantinople (present-day Istanbul), has morphed into Byzantium, and becomes the pinnacle of civilization. Valeria: Not too much. Rick Steves Italy, the complete guide, offers more coverage of more destinations in a mostly black-and-white format, and is updated annually. See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. Giotto's storytelling style is straightforward, and anyone with a knowledge of the Bible can read the chapel like a picture book. And what's with this whale's rib? Giotto, considered the first modern painter, painted scenes that were more realistic and human than anything that had been done for a thousand years. Franklin: Yes, absolutely, constantly. Rick: This such beautiful food, and it's such beautiful wine. I'm not in Venice, but it feels like Venice…just without the canals. Giotto emphasizes the human vulnerability of these figures. Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet made Verona a household word — and this is supposedly Juliet's balcony. Italy's Verona, Padova, and Ravenna. And Verona has its share of excellent eateries. The Roman Empire has fallen in the West, barbarians have sacked the city of Rome, and Europe is falling into the Dark Ages. Why? Standing here, we can witness a culture suddenly lurching forward out of antiquity and into the Middle Ages. Padova's old town, even when crowded with today's students, has a colonnaded Old World elegance. Rick: So, now, spritz. As pilgrims have done for centuries, visitors marvel. But it is outside the city walls and lacking in charm. And within these historic lecture halls is Europe's oldest surviving anatomy theater, from the late 1500s. Do you like it? It wouldn't be the right thing. Explore Europe with Rick Steves' travel guide to the best destinations and recommended sights, things to do, tips, and videos along with much more travel information. One of my happiest memories from a recent trip is eating with my friend Franklin at Enoteca Can Grande, where we let the chef, Giuliano, bring us whatever he wanted. Eggplant parmigiana and burrata from Puglia. Valeria: Yes. For instance, this image of Christ is beardless — the style of the ancient Romans, and nearby is the standard medieval portrayal of a bearded Jesus. We don't say, "Oh, my god, we're going to go have an aperitivo, it's going to be a fun night," we're just like, "Hey, I'm in Piazza dei Signori. Italy stretches, like Europe's boot, into the Mediterranean Sea. Bebita! It's known for having the freshest and greatest selection of herbs, fruits, and vegetables. With much of the charm and far fewer crowds, you could call this part of Italy "sotto-estimato" — under-estimated. Facing the emperor is his wife Theodora and her entourage. Venice: City of Dreams - Video - Rick Steves' Europe For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, see our FAQ . That's very trendy, I think. Travel with Rick on this video guide to Venice, Italy and find out what to do on your next trip. Giancarlo: [sings]. ; remnants of its 14th-century boom time; and its 21st-century quiet, pedestrian-only ambience. Their gestures are simple but expressive: Arm raised shows anger, head tilted down says dejection, arms flung out indicate anguish, and a tender kiss? Satan is a grotesque ogre munching on sinners. The tiny, admittedly romantic courtyard is a spectacle in itself, with visitors from all over the world posing on the almost believable balcony and taking snapshots of each other rubbing Juliet's bronze breast, hoping to get lucky in love. Rick Steves is America's leading authority on European travel. As it turns out, anchovies and polenta are a "good marriage." centuries old town of VERONA. Access to Palazzo Bò is by a mostly underwhelming 45-minute guided tour, but tour does Europe's first great Anatomy Theater (from 1594). In the shadow of Venice, we visit three great cities. Verona is a hit with aficionados of Roman ruins and Romeo and Juliet fans. Rick: Giancarlo! A fountain has bubbled here for 2,000 years. The main drag leads to one of the most important pilgrimage churches in all of Europe: the Basilica of St. Anthony. This is a classic little mom-and-pop restaurant with Giuliano helping diners match fine Italian wines with just the right local dishes, while stylish Corrina is in the tiny kitchen making sure every dish is just right. And running things here on earth is Emperor Justinian — sporting both a halo and a crown to show he's leader of both the Church and the state. This special episode is a sonnet to travel - an introspective love story, set in Europe, that vividly celebrates the rewards of exploring our world and the joy that awaits those who travel. However, it is inaccurate to assume him as gay as he is a proud father of two grown-up children. People have gathered here since Roman times, when this was a forum, or market. In the Betrayal of Christ, amid the crowded chaos of Jesus' arrest, Giotto skillfully creates a focus upon the central action: Judas embraces Jesus, looks him straight in the eyes, and kisses him. The city is so famous for love that it gets countless letters addressed simply to "Juliet, Verona, Italy." His people, with their voluminous, deeply creased robes, are as sturdy and massive as Greek statues. Terms of Service | Privacy, Verona, Italy: Ambience and a Grappa Taste Test, Verona, Italy: House of Juliet and Castelvecchio. For nearly 800 years pilgrims have flocked here to venerate the tomb of St. Anthony of Padova. You can sit on a quiet street or in a plush little dining area inside. Made famous by Shakespeare's star-crossed lovers, Verona is Italy's fourth-most-visited city and second in the Veneto region only to Venice in population and artistic importance. Can you imagine having the beautiful food with no beautiful wine? Still, busloads of tourists gaze at the almost believable balcony, scribble a valentine on the walls, and take part in the tradition of rubbing the breast of Juliet's statue. Next up? As you wander, appreciate the Italian passion for good food: Merchants share recipe tips with shoppers. Guidebook author, TV & radio host, business owner, Lutheran, and NORML board member. Enroute to our next destination, we stopped midday in the. Woman: Well, there's two different kinds of spritz. “Italians love to talk about food. Medieval Italian cities were often dominated by a single powerful family. [It's good! Rick: Do you talk about the food as you eat it? Rick: A little bit. Season 8 Episode 8 | 25m 4s | Video has closed captioning. After a sculptor replaced them, locals dubbed her "Verona's Madonna.". The scene has changed little over the centuries, as merchants artfully display their goods. If these ornate family tombs are any indication, the Scaligeri had no problem with self-esteem. And in springtime, there's lots of work for the man who preps the artichokes. What's grappa made out of? Their star offering is a set menu that's a festival of antipasti treats, an imaginative pasta, your choice of a meat or fish course, and dessert. At the top of the arch, the circle with the monogram of Christ (I for Jesus and X for Christ) symbolizes perfection and eternity. It's fun to observe the scene, knowing that all this commotion was started by a clever tour guide back in the '70s as a way to attract visitors to Verona. A unique ritual is the post-graduation roast. I hope you've enjoyed our look at three delightful cities in the north of Italy: Ravenna, Padova, and Verona. Woman: Yes, it's always like, you know, you're going back home, and you come here, and you look around, and you always see your friends. Get YouTube Premium Get YouTube TV Best of YouTube Music Sports Gaming ... VOLTERRA on Italy's Great Hill Towns by Rick Steves by VolterraTelevision. Renowned in its day, it was a haven for free thinking, and attracted intellectuals from far and wide. Votives from the faithful ask for help, or give thanks for miracles they believe he's performed. Apparently, when soul mates find each other in Italy, it makes the apple whole. It's been hanging here for four centuries — likely a souvenir brought home from the Orient by spice traders. Rick: Extreme wine. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the Best of Europe. Valeria: La grappa aiuta faca de amici. We're starting here in Padova. Florence, Italy: Church of San Miniato and Piazzale Michelangelo These frescoes are considered by many to be a precursor of the Renaissance to come. We'll marvel at precious Giotto frescoes, join pilgrims at the tomb of St. Anthony, and celebrate an irreverent university graduation. The wall of padlocks is a popular fad, enabling lovers to prove that their hearts are eternally locked up. The former Polish chapel was recently renamed for St. John Paul II, canonized in 2014. You see the color is different, OK, so it's basically — this is with Aperol, which is lighter, and that one is with Campari, and then you put a slice of orange, usually ice and white wine, or sparkling wine, and a bit of water also. This historic enoteca was once the private chapel of the archbishop of Verona. Travel information for Europe's best destinations across 25+ countries. And, if Romeo and Juliet had existed and were still alive, they'd recognize much of their "hometown.". Until next time, keep on travelin'. Gracing the high altar are a group of bronze statues by the Renaissance master Donatello — the Crucifixion and Mary, with Padova's favorite saints. It's in their DNA. Back then, medical students would pack these steep balconies to watch professors dissect human cadavers. To protect the paintings from excess humidity, only 25 people are allowed in the chapel at a time, and prepaid reservations are required — it's wise to reserve at least two days in advance. And Ravenna, with its shimmering mosaics, was once the western bastion of the Byzantine Empire. Yet each were created by artists of the same generation. In italiano? (If you'll be staying overnight in Padua or parking a car, consider paying a little extra for a Padova Card). Same wine. Early in the evening the stalls are gone and the piazzas become community gathering places. Whatever your favorite drink, everyone — including tourists — is welcome to enjoy this convivial Italian ritual. The indoor market, featuring various butchers and cheese shops, is a sensuous experience as well. Then came the best polenta I'd ever tasted, with anchovies. Thanks for joining us. Hotel Verona is convenient as it is a short walk from the train station. Rick: So wine is made out of grape juice. This well-preserved arena — the fourth largest in the Roman world — is a popular venue for events even today. 4:24. It would be like being at La Fenice, the opera, first row, and being in bad company, someone who doesn't appreciate opera music and would prefer rock music, let's say. It's a trendy scene, as young Veronans fill the bars to enjoy their refreshing spritz drinks, olives, and chips. We enliven each stop with a tasty dose of Italian dolce vita. By Rick Steves Love is in the air at the House of Juliet, where you'll find amorous graffiti, couples romancing, and tourists getting cozy with Juliet's statue. Considered too fragile to be seen by huge numbers of people, sights like this are open only to a limited number of visitors who make a reservation in advance. Get the most out of every day and dollar with Rick Steves Italy guidebooks, Snapshot guides and Pocket travel guides Do you want to drop by before I go home and have a bite to eat?" Like the rest of the Veneto, Padova was ruled by Venice from the 15th century until Napoleon came — at about 1800. And you stop and say, "Oh, let's have a drink together," and that's just normal. Floating above the arch, two angels hold rays of sun. North Italy is grappa country, and Oreste, who runs this bar, introduces the local firewater with a passion clearly shared by a couple of his regulars. Franklin: Italian men who adore cooking will always refer to "la mamma," their mother. This funky wine-and-grappa bar is still run by Oreste (with his Chicagoan wife, Beverly) like a 1970s, old-style enoteca. The shorter Best of Italy guidebook focuses on Italy's top destinations and sights, is in full color, and is updated every other year. Everywhere you look there are memories of illustrious alumni and professors. All creation swirls around Christ as the sacrificial lamb, supported by four angels. A guy on a bike pedals gracefully by, his girlfriend sitting on the handlebars embracing him. His church of San Vitale stands as a sanctuary of order in the midst of all that chaos. With 60,000 students, Padova's university is always lively, and you're likely to stumble onto some kind of spirited school event. Plan your own trip or take one of Rick's value-packed European tours and vacations. Travel with Rick on this video guide to Italy and find out what to do on your next trip. Sooner or later, those wandering Verona's streets will be flushed into a very crowded courtyard. Then friends sing the catchy but obscene local university anthem, reminding their newly esteemed friend not to get too stuffy. Valeria: Exactly, exactly. Valeria: Yes, yes. After a lifetime of exploring Europe - and inspiring Americans to see Europe as the springboard for world exploration - Rick Steves shares his reasons why. Next stop: Verona. This was a time of transition — and many consider these mosaics both the last ancient Roman and the first medieval European works of art. The church feels alive with pilgrims from all corners. You never forget her." Rick Steves, Edmonds, Washington. Browse and sample and clown around with Oreste. Traces of the past hide between the bottles — ask Beverly to tell you the story (closed Mon). For a better love life. Giuliano is serving us an array of plates. You'll end up at Piazza Erbe, Verona's market square, where vendors come to slice and sell whatever's in season. And, like a centerpiece on the far wall, is The Last Judgment. The gang presents a giant poster with a generally crude caricature of the graduate, and a list of embarrassing personal stories for all to see. And, by building their tombs on pillars, they made sure they'd be looked up to…even in death. Rick Steves takes a walk with his girlfriend, Shelley Bryan Wee, and her two dogs, Gracie and Jackson, in downtown Edmonds. Posted on April 22, 2007 December 2, 2013 by Rick Steves Stars Not Crossed in Today’s Verona Last night I was in Verona, strolling after dinner through a multigenerational sea of people on a wide sidewalk promenade. High above the altar, Christ is in heaven — sitting on a celestial orb — overseeing creation, symbolized by the green earth below his feet. That's — that's the answer to everything. Rick: Not too much. Padova's Scrovegni Chapel, with its precious 14th-century Giotto frescoes, is one of Italy's most beloved art treasures. We stayed at the Giulietta y Romeo Hotel - a few steps away from the Roman Arena and an easy walk from the train station. Fans of Romeo and Juliet will be happy to note that Shakespeare's inspiration for the Montagues and Capulets was two real feuding families from here in Verona: the Montecchi and the Capuleti. Its main attractions are its wealth of Roman ruins — like this bridge, dating from the first century B.C. Right now, my love story is all about food, and I'm joining local friends for dinner at Enoteca Can Grande. The whale's rib, hanging from an archway for 500 years, was a souvenir brought home from the Orient by spice traders. A woman tells me that her husband is her mezza mela — half an apple. ", The Venetian lion has hovered over this square since 1405, when it reminded locals they were ruled by Venice. RICK STEVES ’ EUROPE: Italy’s Veneto: Verona, Padua And Ravenna Airs Saturday, Saturday, April 25, 2020 at 10:30 p.m. on KPBS TV + PBS Video App Thursday, April 23, 2020 ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | see our FAQ. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. It's just to relax after, you know, your long day at work or at university. Today Piazza Erbe is for the locals, who start their evening with an aperitivo here. Venice sits near the top of the Adriatic Sea. The mortadella (Italian-style baloney — not a high-end meat) was served with black truffle. Cheers. Construction of this impressive Romanesque/Gothic church (with its Byzantine-style domes) started immediately after St. Anthony's death in 1231. By placing their hand on his tomb while saying a silent prayer, pilgrims show devotion to Anthony and feel the saint's presence. Enoteca Cangrande is enthusiastically run by Giuliano and Corrina, who enjoy turning people on to great, well-matched food and wine. Mthe walk back and forth into the city takes you along a busy street. Posted on May 9, 2012 December 6, 2016 by Rick Steves Hit the Ground Running in Verona A fundamental skill for travelers is simply getting around efficiently and economically using public transit. Over the centuries, crowds of up to 25,000 spectators have cheered Roman gladiator battles, medieval executions, and modern plays — including Verona's popular summer opera festival, which takes advantage of the arena's famous acoustics. In its heyday the island of Venice ruled a huge empire, and that included a good part of the Italian mainland — a region called the "Veneto." To go to a restaurant is wonderful, but how la mamma cooked, no one, nobody can equal that. Rick: Salute! Any age without getting bored. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Chafing under Venetian rule for four centuries seemed only to sharpen Padova's independent spirit. Imagine calling spam exquisite...just add truffle. Medieval Italian cities were often dominated by a single powerful family. Everything sparkles with colorful Bible scenes told with a sixth-century exuberance. One of Christianity's the most popular shrines to one of the most popular saints, the basilica was begun a year after Anthony died, in 1232, and is filled with magnificent art. Calmly isolated from the action is Enrico Scrovegni, who paid for all this art in an attempt to gain forgiveness for the sins of his wealthy and greedy father. Rick: What does Giancarlo say about grappa? Whenever I stroll here, I find myself surrounded by little love stories — romantic snapshots fluttering in and out of my world like a butterfly. "Even if we do not talk," said Franklin, "with these cheeses we have a good conversation." The Byzantine Emperor Justinian then brings order and stability to this part of Europe, making Ravenna the westernmost pillar of his realm. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Everything you need is here. Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet made Verona a household word. If you don't need world-class sights, this town is a joy. Giancarlo: È buono! In the shadow of Venice, we visit three great cities. Franklin: Absolutely, yes, sure. Remnants of the town's illustrious past — chips of Roman columns, medieval reliefs, fine old facades, and fossils in marble — are scattered among modern-day fancy shop windows. The pilgrims believe Anthony is their protector, confidant, and intercessor. I'm Rick Steves. The ceiling above is a festive celebration of God's creation, with 80 different birds from the sixth century — most still flying around Ravenna today. Caring love. Rick Steves with family (Photo: Pinterest) Because of his unsuccessful marriage, his fans professed him as gay. We'll see an ancient Roman arena in a modern urban setting, admire exquisite Byzantine mosaics, and make friends over a little grappa. It's a multigenerational affair. All: Exactly, of course, of course. Rick Steves » In Italy, ‘A Good Restaurant Should Come With a Bed’ Rick Steves: On a great meal -- and an even better dinner conversation -- in Verona, Italy Locals marvel that each year, about 1,600 Japanese tour groups break their Venice-to-Milan ride for an hour-long stop in Verona just to stand in a courtyard. Wallpapered with Giotto's beautifully preserved cycle of frescoes, the glorious chapel — painted in about the year 1300 — depicts the lives of Jesus and Mary. Woman: Mmm, true. This is the time when, traditionally, students gather to enjoy the ritual of the aperitivo, lubricated by a spritz…or three. The basilica — standing as a sanctuary of order in the midst of the madness after the fall of Rome — is covered with lavish mosaics. Franklin: Rick, salute. Getting around this part of Italy is easy. It’s in their DNA.”From time to time, we share a random video clip to fuel your travel dreams. And finally, beef cheeks stewed in Amarone with polenta, just as la mamma made it. Rick Steves' My Way Tour-2: Home Venice Verona Lake Como The Cinque Terre Florence Siena Assisi Rome Epilogue - More than a Vacation Our Verona Highlights “Travel makes one modest. A modest dress code is enforced. Justinian brings together both military and church leaders — all united by the same vision. The former dancer who became his mistress, then empress, is decked out in jewels and pearls and carries a chalice to consecrate the new church. And that spirit survives at its prestigious university. These relics befit the saint who couldn't stop teaching, preaching, and praying. And the side chapel containing St. Anthony's tomb is a Renaissance masterpiece from 1500. Climb to the top and imagine the spectacles this arena has hosted for over 2,000 years. The Scaligeri castle evokes Verona's Golden Age, when the city was one of Europe's great economic powers. Rick: Valeria, scusi — in Italian, how do you say, "Grappa helps you make friends?" Town squares take on different personalities as the day goes on. And they're getting even busier, thanks to the movie Letters to Juliet, about a girl (Amanda Seyfried) who finds a letter while visiting the House of Juliet and travels through Italy to help reunite the author with her lost love. This was allowed by the government and Church as long as the cadavers were convicted foreign criminals. I don't know if all of this love is related to the Romeo and Juliet hype — or if it's just the natural high that comes from living in such a joyful and connected place. All the full length Rick Steves Europe PBS Episodes that I could find. Italians love to talk about food. May 15, 2019 - Rick Steves' Europe Travel Guide | In the shadow of Venice, we visit three great cities in the Veneto area. see our FAQ. Explore Europe with Rick Steves, best-selling travel author and host of public television's "Rick Steves' Europe" and public radio's "Travel with Rick Steves." Rick: Oreste helps you make friends. Rick: Oreste helps you make friends. This had to be done in a "don't ask, don't tell" kind of way, because the Roman Catholic Church only started allowing the teaching of anatomy through dissection in the late 1800s. The importance placed on science during the Renaissance to come go BEEP yourself! `` ) ruled Venice. And some of these merchants stretches back centuries a wine bar to learn about grappa goes! Wail over his lifeless body to come fiction, the Venetian lion has hovered this... 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